Elgin “Navigator’s Watch” / GCT Master Navigation Timer (WWII)

 

Elgin “Navigator’s Watch” / GCT Master Navigation Timer (WWII)

• Used by U.S. Army Air Forces navigators.

• 24-hour dial, large pocket-watch style case.

• 22-jewel high-grade movement (Grade 499).

• Comparable to Hamilton’s famous 4992B.

• Market: $600–$1,500+

Elgin Electronic / Electric (1957–1960s) Watches

 

Elgin Electronic / Electric (1957–1960s)

• Overview: One of the first American-made electric wristwatches.

• Features: Hybrid battery-powered mechanical movement.

• Significance: Part of the race to develop electric timekeeping before quartz technology emerged.

Vintage 1943 Elgin WWII Military Stainless Steel Field Watch

 

During World War II, Elgin National Watch Company of Elgin, Illinois, was one of the major suppliers of military watches for the U.S. Armed Forces. Production of civilian watches was largely halted between 1942 and 1945, as the factory was dedicated to war contracts—producing timepieces, chronometers, aircraft instruments, and precision timers for the U.S. Army and Navy.

By 1943, Elgin was producing a variety of field and navigation watches meeting military specifications such as ORD Dept. (Army Ordnance Department) and U.S. Navy Bureau of Aeronautics (BUAER) requirements.

Vintage 1928 ELGIN USA Art Deco Mens Watch

7 Jewel Mechanical Elgin Movement 

The first Elgin quartz watches - “Quartz Revolution.”

 

The first Elgin quartz watches appeared in the early 1970s, during the “Quartz Revolution.”

Here’s a brief timeline:

• 1970–1972: Elgin National Watch Company (which had ceased U.S. watch production in 1968) began branding imported quartz movements from Japan and Switzerland under the Elgin name. These were among the first quartz models to carry the Elgin logo, though they were not made in the original Elgin, Illinois factory.

• 1973–1975: Elgin released several quartz wristwatches using early movements such as the ESA Swiss quartz calibers and Japanese movements from Seiko and Citizen.

• Late 1970s: Elgin expanded its quartz line with LED and LCD digital watches, keeping up with trends popularized by Pulsar and Seiko.

Essentially, the first Elgin quartz watches debuted around 1972–1973, marking the brand’s transition from American mechanical heritage to imported quartz technology.

Vintage Elgin “Skin Diver” (circa 1960s) Watch

 

Elgin “Skin Diver” (circa 1960s)

• One of the best-known Elgin diver-style watches.

• Typically housed in a 38mm stainless steel case with a black rotating bezel and luminous dial.

• Many were powered by Swiss automatic movements (such as ETA calibers), as Elgin had begun outsourcing movements after U.S. production declined in the late 1950s.

• Water resistance was usually around 100 to 200 meters, depending on the model.

• These watches carried the Elgin reliability but with a rugged, sporty aesthetic that appealed to adventure seekers.

Elgin Lord Elgin Direct Read / Jump Hour Watches (1950s–1960s)

 

Elgin Lord Elgin Direct Read / Jump Hour watches are some of the coolest and most collectible pieces Elgin ever made, thanks to their futuristic design and mechanical ingenuity. Here’s a deeper dive:

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Overview
The Elgin Direct Read (sometimes called “Jump Hour” or “Digital Mechanical”) was Elgin’s answer to the mid-century fascination with space-age design and technology. Instead of traditional hands, these watches display the time using rotating discs visible through small windows on the dial.

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History & Era

• Produced: Mid-to-late 1950s through the 1960s.

• Market Position: Part of the Lord Elgin line, which was Elgin’s premium collection with higher-grade movements and stylish cases.

• Design Influence: Postwar optimism, the space race, and the growing trend for “modernist” watch design — these were marketed as futuristic and innovative.

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 How It Works

• Hour Disc: Jumps forward every hour (hence “jump hour”) rather than sweeping continuously.

• Minute Disc: Rotates gradually, displaying minutes in a linear fashion.

• Seconds: Some versions include a third disc for seconds, while others omit it for a cleaner look.

• Movement: High-grade 21-jewel or 23-jewel Elgin manual-wind movements, adjusted for accuracy.

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Design & Variants

• Cases: Usually gold-filled or 14k solid gold; cushion, tonneau, or rectangular shapes were common.

• Dials: Minimalist, with windows for hours, minutes, and sometimes seconds.

• Straps: Typically leather, although some came with period-correct bracelets.

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Collectibility

• Rarity: Produced in relatively small numbers, and because many were worn daily, pristine examples are hard to find.

• Desirability: Collectors love them for their unique “retro-futuristic” look, making them conversation starters.

• Value: Prices have been climbing, especially for solid gold models or those in excellent cosmetic condition.

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Fun Fact:
These watches were part of a broader mid-century design trend — other brands like Hamilton (with the Ventura) and Bulova (with Accutron later on) also leaned into space-age styling, but Elgin’s Direct Read remains one of the most purely mechanical “digital” watches of the era.

Elgin’s early wristwatches- converted pocket watch movements

 Elgin’s first wristwatch was introduced around 1910–1912, during the early rise of wristwatches in the United States. Before that, Elgin had been almost entirely focused on pocket watches, which were the dominant style of personal timekeeping in the 19th century.

Elgin’s early wristwatches were essentially converted pocket watch movements (often ladies’ pendant watch movements) cased with wire lugs to be worn on the wrist. These early pieces were marketed primarily toward women—men still considered pocket watches more “proper” until World War I popularized the wristwatch for soldiers.

By the mid-1910s, Elgin began producing purpose-built wristwatches with smaller, round movements and enamel dials, often in silver or gold-filled cases. These set the stage for Elgin’s more refined wristwatch lines of the 1920s and 1930s, including their popular “Lord Elgin” dress watches and military-issued models.

James Dean’s Elgin watch was a pocket watch with an Illinois movement

 James Dean’s Elgin watch was a pocket watch with an Illinois movement (Elgin acquired Illinois Watch Company in the late 1920s) that he is said to have carried regularly. His association with Elgin added a cool, rebellious aura to the brand, aligning with Dean’s iconic image as a symbol of youthful independence.

Vintage 1930's Elgin C.H. Hulburd 18KT White Gold Pocket Watch

 Vintage 1930's Elgin C.H. Hulburd 18KT White Gold Pocket Watch

Elgin C.H. Hulburd 18k White Gold Pocket Watch (1930s)

Overview

• Model: C.H. Hulburd

• Era: 1920s–1930s

• Movement:

  • Ultra-thin, 12-size, 21-jewel movement

  • Adjusted to 5–6 positions for chronometer-grade accuracy

  • Beautifully finished with gold jewel settings, micrometric regulator, and damaskeening

• Case:

  • 18K solid white gold (also made in yellow gold and occasionally platinum)

  • Often engraved with Art Deco motifs

  • Hinged back and dust cover

• Dial:

  • Classic porcelain or silvered dial with Breguet or baton-style hands

  • Sub-seconds at 6 o’clock

• Style: Slim, elegant, Art Deco-era luxury pocket watch

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Why It’s Special

• Top of Elgin’s Line: This was the most prestigious watch Elgin ever made — named after company president Charles Hulburd.

• Hand-Finished: Each movement was hand-assembled and adjusted by Elgin’s master watchmakers.

• Luxury Materials: Almost always cased in solid 18K gold (white, yellow, or green).

• Scarce: Production numbers were low compared to standard Elgin pocket watches.

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Current Value (Market Range)

• Typical Range: $4,000 – $8,000

• High-End Examples: $10,000+ if:

  • Case is platinum or diamond-set

  • Original box & papers included

  • Movement is pristine and fully serviced

  • Dial and hands are original and flawless

At major auctions (Christie’s, Sotheby’s, Heritage), a pristine 1930s 18K white gold Hulburd has crossed the $12,000 mark, especially if it has historical provenance or presentation engraving.

Early Elgin Convertible Watches (1870s–1880s)

 Early Elgin Convertible Watches (1870s–1880s)

In the 1870s and 1880s, the Elgin National Watch Company produced 

specialized pocket watch movements known as "convertible" movements. This design innovation allowed a single movement to be fitted into either a hunter-style (closed face) or open-face watch case, offering flexibility for both jewelers and customers. 

Notable early convertible movements

Introduced in 1878, Elgin's first interchangeable, stem-wind, three-quarter plate movements were a novelty of the time. Early convertible movements from this period include: 

• Grade 86 (c. 1884)
  : This 16-size, 15-jewel movement was one of the popular models for conversion. It featured a three-finger bridge design and a unique lever-set mechanism for changing the time.
• Grade 93 (c. 1883)
  : This was an 11-jewel, gilt-finished movement in a 16-size. Its distinctive lever-setting device was deeper than other movements of the era, requiring cases made specifically for it. The setting mechanism featured a wheel that lifted to engage the hands.
• Rarity of complete watches: Since these movements were deeper, they often required special cases. While the movements themselves are not uncommon, a complete, original convertible watch in its designated case is a rare find today.