Vintage Elgin Men's Art Deco Designed Watches

 

Elgin’s men’s Art Deco watches of the 1920s–1930s blended geometric styling with practical innovation, introducing rectangular and tonneau-shaped cases, stylized numerals, and improved wristwatch durability as the format replaced pocket watches.

In more detail, Elgin embraced the Art Deco movement by moving away from traditional round designs and adopting bold geometric case forms—rectangular, square, and elongated tonneau shapes—often with stepped sides, engraved bezels, or two-tone metal finishes. Dials became highly stylized, featuring Arabic or Roman numerals with sharp, angular fonts, sector layouts, and contrasting minute tracks that enhanced legibility while reinforcing the modern aesthetic. Many models used blued steel hands and finely detailed textures, reflecting both elegance and precision.

On the innovation side, Elgin paired these designs with important technical improvements. Their wristwatches incorporated more compact, reliable movements adapted from pocket watch calibers, along with early shock protection concepts and better case construction to guard against dust and moisture—key concerns as wristwatches became everyday tools. Elgin also focused on mass production with interchangeable parts, allowing these stylish watches to be widely accessible without sacrificing consistency.

The result was a line of men’s watches that captured the spirit of Art Deco—modern, architectural, and forward-looking—while helping establish the wristwatch as both a functional instrument and a design statement. Today, Elgin Art Deco pieces are especially valued for their distinctive shapes, detailed dials, and role in the transition from traditional to modern watch design.

Elgin – Circa 1873 Elgin National Watch Co. 18K Gold Key Wound

 

Elgin – Circa 1873

(Elgin National Watch Co. was founded 1864)

By 1873:

• Elgin was still in its early manufacturing phase

• Most watches were key wind / key set

• Sizes were typically 18 size or 16 size

• Movements were full plate or early 3/4 plate designs

If yours is truly 1873, it is from Elgin’s first decade of production — that’s significant.

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Key Wind Explained

A key-wind watch means:

• You wind the mainspring using a small key

• You also set the time with a key (unless it’s key-wind, lever-set)

These were phased out by the late 1870s–1880s as stem-wind took over.

Collectors like early key-wind pieces because:

• They represent early American industrial watchmaking

• Production numbers were lower than later mass-market models

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18K Gold Case (Major Value Driver)

An 18K case from 1873 would usually be:

• Heavy

• Hand-engraved

• Often hunter-case style

• Possibly made by a premium case maker (Keystone, Fahys, etc.)

Gold value alone today could be:

 $1,500–$3,500+

(depending on weight and case size)

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Movement Possibilities (1873 Era)

You mentioned:

 15 Jewel

Very common for better-grade watches of that time.

 B.W. Raymond Grade

If it is an early B.W. Raymond, that’s strong.

Early Raymond grades:

• 15 jewel

• Adjusted

• High-quality finish

• Railroad-preferred later on

An 1873 Raymond is more desirable than a basic grade.

The Elgin Giant Watch (1893)

 

The Elgin Giant Watch (1893)

Built by: Elgin National Watch Company
Purpose: Showcase American watchmaking at the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair

Jaw-dropping specs

• Dial diameter: approx. 18 feet

• Hands: several feet long (minute hand alone weighed hundreds of pounds)

• Movement:

  • Custom-built, fully mechanical

  • Functioned like an enormous pocket watch movement

• Weight: several tons (exact figures vary in historical sources)

• Display: Fully operational and visible to fairgoers

Elgin essentially took the concept of a precision pocket watch and scaled it up to architectural proportions.

Elgin National Watch Co. – A-11, A-17, WWII and Cold War field watches

 

Elgin National Watch Co. — Military Watch Overview

Founded: 1864, Elgin, Illinois
Role: Primary U.S. military wristwatch supplier from WWI through the early Cold War
Legacy: Standardized the look and function of the modern field watch

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 Elgin A-11 (WWII, c. 1942–1945)

Historical Importance

• Known as “The Watch That Won the War”

• Issued widely to U.S. Army Air Forces pilots, navigators, and ground crew

• Elgin produced more A-11 watches than Waltham and Bulova combined

Military Specification

• Type: A-11 (later AN-5740 Army-Navy spec)

• Issue status: Officially issued government property

Case & Dial

• Case size: ~32–33 mm

• Case material: Parkerized steel or stainless steel

• Lugs: Fixed bars

• Crystal: Acrylic

• Dial: Matte black

• Hands: White pencil or sword

• Numerals: White Arabic, high-contrast

• Seconds: Center seconds (critical for navigation)

• No date

Movement

• Elgin Grade 539 (6/0-size)

• 15 jewels

• Manual wind

• Hacking seconds

• Temperature-compensated balance

• Extremely durable, easy to service in the field

Caseback Markings

Common engravings include:

• “A-11”

• “AN-5740”

• “U.S. Army” or “U.S. Army Air Forces”

• Contract and serial numbers

Collector Notes

• Elgin A-11 dials show minor font and logo variations

• Many surviving examples were re-cased post-war—original cases matter

• Original radium lume should appear aged, not bright

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 Elgin A-17 (Late WWII → Early Cold War, c. 1944–1950s)

What Is the A-17?

• Successor to the A-11, developed to improve readability and navigation

• Issued primarily to U.S. Air Force pilots and navigators

Key Differences from A-11

• Larger case: ~35–36 mm

• Dial: Black with white Arabic numerals and minute hash marks

• Seconds: Center seconds with hacking

• Improved legibility under low light

Movement

• Elgin Grade 571 or 572

• 17 jewels

• Manual wind

• Hacking seconds

• Higher finishing than A-11 movements

Caseback Markings

• “A-17”

• “U.S. Air Force”

• Contract numbers (often MIL-W-6433)

Collectibility

• Scarcer than A-11

• Strong interest from aviation collectors

• Original examples command a premium

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 Elgin WWII Ground & Field Watches (Non-A-11)

Elgin also produced non-aviation field watches for soldiers, engineers, and support units.

Typical Features

• Smaller cases (31–34 mm)

• Sub-seconds or center seconds

• Black or white dials

• Radium lume

• Less standardized markings than A-11/A-17

These are less famous but historically important and often more affordable.

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⌚ Elgin Cold War Military Watches (1950s–1960s)

Transition Era

• Military needs shifted toward improved water resistance and shock protection

• Elgin remained a key supplier until U.S. production declined

Notable Specs & Models

• MIL-W-3818 (early field watch specification)

• Improved hacking mechanisms

• Stronger cases and crystals

• Issued during:

  • Korean War

  • Early Vietnam era

Movements

• Elgin manual-wind military grades

• Later contracts included imported Swiss movements as U.S. watchmaking declined

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Why Elgin Is a Cornerstone Military Brand

• Backbone of U.S. wartime timekeeping

• Direct ancestor of modern military and field watch design

• Huge production numbers ensure availability, but correct examples are increasingly scarce

• Historically tied to WWII aviation, Korea, and early Vietnam

The Founders of The Elgin Watch Company

 

The Elgin National Watch Company was founded in 1864 by a group of key figures in American industry and watchmaking. It did not have a single founder—Elgin was created by a founding team, backed by Chicago financiers and guided by an experienced watchmaker.

Main Founders

1. Benjamin W. Raymond

• Former Mayor of Chicago

• Considered the principal founder and driving force

• Organized the funding, secured the site in Elgin, Illinois, and led the company’s early development

2. J.C. Adams

• Former executive of the Waltham Watch Company

• Helped plan and design the factory

3. Philo Carpenter

• Chicago businessman and early financial supporter

4. Thomas S. Dickerson

• Investor and part of the Chicago founding group

5. George Hunter

• Also part of the original financial backing team

Guided by Master Watchmaker

** – Charles H. Moseley**

• A leading watchmaker from Waltham

• Brought technical knowledge that shaped Elgin’s movement design and production style

• Often credited as the technical founder of Elgin’s watchmaking approach

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In Summary

The Elgin National Watch Company was founded by:
Benjamin W. Raymond (lead founder), J.C. Adams, Philo Carpenter, Thomas S. Dickerson, George Hunter, and watchmaker Charles H. Moseley.

Raymond is the closest to being called the single founder, but Elgin was fundamentally a team-led industrial project.

Elgin “Navigator’s Watch” / GCT Master Navigation Timer (WWII)

 

Elgin “Navigator’s Watch” / GCT Master Navigation Timer (WWII)

• Used by U.S. Army Air Forces navigators.

• 24-hour dial, large pocket-watch style case.

• 22-jewel high-grade movement (Grade 499).

• Comparable to Hamilton’s famous 4992B.

• Market: $600–$1,500+

Elgin Electronic / Electric (1957–1960s) Watches

 

Elgin Electronic / Electric (1957–1960s)

• Overview: One of the first American-made electric wristwatches.

• Features: Hybrid battery-powered mechanical movement.

• Significance: Part of the race to develop electric timekeeping before quartz technology emerged.

Vintage 1943 Elgin WWII Military Stainless Steel Field Watch

 

During World War II, Elgin National Watch Company of Elgin, Illinois, was one of the major suppliers of military watches for the U.S. Armed Forces. Production of civilian watches was largely halted between 1942 and 1945, as the factory was dedicated to war contracts—producing timepieces, chronometers, aircraft instruments, and precision timers for the U.S. Army and Navy.

By 1943, Elgin was producing a variety of field and navigation watches meeting military specifications such as ORD Dept. (Army Ordnance Department) and U.S. Navy Bureau of Aeronautics (BUAER) requirements.

Vintage 1928 ELGIN USA Art Deco Mens Watch

7 Jewel Mechanical Elgin Movement 

The first Elgin quartz watches - “Quartz Revolution.”

 

The first Elgin quartz watches appeared in the early 1970s, during the “Quartz Revolution.”

Here’s a brief timeline:

• 1970–1972: Elgin National Watch Company (which had ceased U.S. watch production in 1968) began branding imported quartz movements from Japan and Switzerland under the Elgin name. These were among the first quartz models to carry the Elgin logo, though they were not made in the original Elgin, Illinois factory.

• 1973–1975: Elgin released several quartz wristwatches using early movements such as the ESA Swiss quartz calibers and Japanese movements from Seiko and Citizen.

• Late 1970s: Elgin expanded its quartz line with LED and LCD digital watches, keeping up with trends popularized by Pulsar and Seiko.

Essentially, the first Elgin quartz watches debuted around 1972–1973, marking the brand’s transition from American mechanical heritage to imported quartz technology.

Vintage Elgin “Skin Diver” (circa 1960s) Watch

 

Elgin “Skin Diver” (circa 1960s)

• One of the best-known Elgin diver-style watches.

• Typically housed in a 38mm stainless steel case with a black rotating bezel and luminous dial.

• Many were powered by Swiss automatic movements (such as ETA calibers), as Elgin had begun outsourcing movements after U.S. production declined in the late 1950s.

• Water resistance was usually around 100 to 200 meters, depending on the model.

• These watches carried the Elgin reliability but with a rugged, sporty aesthetic that appealed to adventure seekers.