Elgin “Durabalance” Wristwatches (1950s–1960s)
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Featured Elgin’s innovative free-sprung balance wheel for better durability and accuracy.
Elgin “Durabalance” Wristwatches (1950s–1960s)
Featured Elgin’s innovative free-sprung balance wheel for better durability and accuracy.
Vintage Automatic Elgin Diver Watch
case size | 42 MM |
movement | Automatic Winding |
approximate age | 1970s |
dial color | Exotic |
material | Stainless Steel |
style | Dive |
category | Vintage |
bracelet | Leather |
lug width | 20 MM |
Vintage Lord Elgin Automatic Watch
case size | 34 MM |
movement | Automatic-winding |
approximate age | 1960s |
dial color | Champagne |
material | Yellow Gold |
style | Dress |
category | Vintage |
bracelet | Leather |
lug width | 16 MM |
Location: Just northwest of Chicago
Opened: 1867
Closed: 1964
Facility: At its peak, the Elgin National Watch Company operated the largest watch manufacturing complex in the world, with over 500,000 square feet of floor space and employing thousands of workers.
Specialty: Produced pocket watches, wristwatches, and watch movements. Known for mass-producing reliable, affordable timepieces using American engineering.
Lincoln, Nebraska
Timeframe: Brief post-WWII period
Purpose: Housed some production and administrative functions during the company's later years, particularly after the Elgin, Illinois factory closed.
Elgin Watch College (Elgin, Illinois)
Established: 1920s
Purpose: Trained watchmakers and technicians; located near the main factory.
South Carolina (Post-Elgin National Watch Company era)
In the 1960s, after closing its Illinois operations, the company briefly attempted to move assembly operations to South Carolina. This period marked the decline of American-made Elgin watches, with more components being imported.
After the Elgin factory shut down in 1964, the "Elgin" name was sold and used by other companies. Watches bearing the Elgin name after that point were not made in the original Illinois factory and were often imported or assembled from foreign parts.
Elgin first began using the "Lord Elgin" name around 1936, and the designation remained in use until the company ceased U.S. watch production in the 1960s. Here's the context and reasoning behind the name:
First Use: Around 1936
Peak Usage: 1940s–1950s (especially post-WWII)
Final Years: Continued sporadically into the early 1960s
Brand Prestige and Differentiation:
"Lord Elgin" was introduced as Elgin’s premium line, meant to convey higher quality, elegance, and status. The name evoked sophistication and nobility, aiming to compete with higher-end domestic and Swiss watches.
Marketing and Tiering Strategy:
Elgin used tiered branding:
"Lord Elgin" = Top-tier, often featuring solid gold cases, 23-jewel movements, and superior finish.
"Elgin" = Standard production models.
"Lady Elgin" = Women's premium line, introduced in parallel.
Appeal to Post-Depression/WWII Consumers:
In the 1930s and 1940s, Americans were becoming more brand- and status-conscious. "Lord Elgin" was designed to appeal to customers seeking luxury without buying Swiss.
Symbol of American Quality:
It reinforced the idea that American-made watches could be just as refined and accurate as their Swiss counterparts.
High jewel counts (often 21 to 27 jewels)
Advanced movements, including Durabalance and free-sprung balances
Solid gold or gold-filled cases
Elegant Art Deco and Mid-Century designs
Often marked "Lord Elgin" on the dial and movement
Purpose: Built for durability, these watches were marketed as shock-resistant and designed for active lifestyles.
Features:
Manual wind movement
Anti-shock system (Incabloc)
Sturdy stainless steel cases
Luminous hands and markers
Style: Classic 1950s tool-watch look, often with Arabic numerals and field-style dials.
Watch: Likely wore an Elgin military-issued timepiece during World War II.
Why notable: Stewart served as a U.S. Army Air Force pilot and was photographed wearing a military-style Elgin or similar watch in uniform.
Rumored Connection: Gable, the "King of Hollywood," was known for stylish accessories and had a taste for American watches, including Elgin. While not definitively photographed with one, collectors speculate he may have owned an Elgin among other brands.
Why notable: Sinatra’s influence on mid-century fashion made any watch he wore a cultural reference point.
Rumored Link: Elvis owned many watches, and while his most famous is the Hamilton Ventura, some vintage dealers and enthusiasts claim he may have worn or gifted Elgin watches in his early career, though this remains unconfirmed.
Watch: Mitchum was seen wearing a classic mid-century dress watch, which some collectors have identified as a Lord Elgin in certain 1950s films. Again, documentation is scarce, but possible.
During WWI and WWII, many actors-turned-soldiers like Henry Fonda, Paul Newman, or Charlton Heston may have worn Elgin watches as part of standard military gear (A-11 watches, etc.).
The first Elgin quartz watches appeared in the early 1970s , during the “ Quartz Revolution .” Here’s a brief timeline: 1970–1972: E...